Summit Coastal Living
Wondering where the world leaders at the G7 summit had their BBQ on the beach in Cornwall? Introducing The Hidden Hut in Portscatho...
Last weekend, Simon Stallard – owner and chef at cult café The Hidden Hut in Portscatho, Cornwall – hauled his 50-foot barbeque from Porthcurnick beach over to Carbis Bay, a stone's throw away from where this year's G7 summit was held. Used to feeding throngs of hungry holidaymakers, on Saturday 12th July, Simon was cooking for some of the world's most powerful politicians, including President Biden and Prime Minister Boris Johnson.
The Macrons, Merkels, Bidens and Johnsons feasted on local lobster, scallops, and grass-fed Moorland beef, as well as an array of plant-based dishes. In the run-up to the G7 event, Simon collaborated with over 150 Cornish artisans to serve up a supper fit for a world leader. The guests dined on the beach to the sounds of the surf at a table decorated with a custom-made live herb garden.
Noel Murphy
Recently, Country Living went to meet Simon to get the inside scoop on running the beachside bistro favoured by foodies from near and far. For more seaside stories, Country Living's Coastal bookazine is on sale from the end of this month. SUBSCRIBE
The sun is edging its way towards the horizon at The Hidden Hut on the Roseland Peninsula beach of Porthcurnick, casting an ethereal glow across the golden sand. Pockets of people happily chatter across big oak tables – their voices muffled by the distant crash of the sea. Some savour cones of Cornish ice cream, others slather mackerel pâté onto crusty bread. The smell of sweet spices and fried fish wafts from the outdoor kitchen. This is summer as people dream it. No cars, no crowds – just sea, sand, simple food and good company.
Presided over by Jemma Glass and Simon Stallard, who took over the National Trust lease in 2010, The Hidden Hut is a beachside café like no other. Accessed only on foot via the coastal path between Portscatho and St Mawes, to the untrained eye, it looks more like a potting shed than a restaurant. But to those in the know, it's home to the best (and best-priced) seafood in town. No wonder tickets to weekly 'feast nights', to which diners bring their own wine, cutlery and crockery, sell out within minutes.
It's difficult to imagine this spot in anything other than dazzling sunshine, but of course it isn't always so. "We've had feasts in storms and during weather warnings. Once, horizontal rain was driving inside the hut and 45mph winds meant we couldn't put up any cover," Jemma says.
Noel Murphy
"It was one of my favourites, though," Simon adds. "We had creamed potato, steamed greens and a sticky rib of beef cooked over a coal pit. We were so excited, then the weather came in. But we couldn't cancel; whatever happens, we never cancel."
Still, the couple didn't hold out hope that all, if any, of the 82 ticket holders would show up. But they did. In fact, four extras came along in the hope there might have been cancellations. Even then, the pair had expected hungry feastgoers to dash over the hill bearing Tupperware before swiftly returning to the comfort of their cars to eat in the dry. But they discovered that guests come for the whole Hidden Hut experience, not just the food.
"We built a fire and sat around it with our umbrellas up, singing," Simon continues. That's the spirit of things here – community is at the core and everyone mucks in, including Jemma's mum Maggie, who lives around the corner in Portscatho and bakes many of the sumptuous cakes on offer at the counter.
Noel Murphy
The couple, who have two young sons, were living with Maggie when they came up with the idea for The Hidden Hut. Simon would walk past it every day on his way to The Rosevine hotel, where he was a chef: "I used to say, 'I'd love to run a beach café,' and knew we could make something work here." So, when the National Trust renewed the lease, the pair asked to take it over. "When we first opened, it was just me and Mum as Simon was working full time," Jemma says. "I'd be here with my book waiting for customers." This must have felt like déjà vu for Jemma, who grew up in the area and worked at the hut as a teenager when it was little more than a shack selling coffee from polystyrene cups.
Guildford-born Simon arrived in Cornwall 17 years ago to run a gastro pub kitchen. "The food scene here is amazing. That's why I came down," he says. "And that's why you stayed," laughs Jemma. "Nothing to do with me or anything." This is clearly a running joke – aside from Jemma, food is the love of Simon's life. Since the very first feast, with little more than some grilled mackerel, potato salad and a sign saying 'BBQ' at the top of the road, the hut has proven to be an extraordinarily popular destination, despite (or perhaps by virtue of) its hard-to-reach location.
For those who don't manage to get a coveted feast ticket, lunchtimes are open to all, with no need to book. Think rustic cardboard containers brimming with hearty seafood chowder, fragrant fish curry, mackerel, squid, crab – or whatever else the sea has to offer that day.
Noel Murphy
Fishermen delivering their catch straight from ocean to kitchen is a regular sight. "From corner to corner, the water here is prolific for fishing but really carefully managed," Simon says, looking out across the bay. "The small families who fish here do so under line and oar – you don't see any big trawlers coming through." From bream to beef, everything served at the hut is locally and ethically sourced. A "one-man band with a polytunnel" is responsible for the hut's vegetables. "We love it because he and his wife were picking courgettes yesterday and we had them in our curry today," Jemma says.
As dusk falls, Simon lights tall medieval-looking torches, while Jemma places thick woollen blankets onto the wooden benches. The obscured shapes of hungry customers emerge over the hill – all armed with wicker picnic baskets, crockery, bottled beer and blankets. Tables are communal and, once everyone is settled, inter-party chatter quickly commences. While diners break bread and talk animatedly, something unusual becomes clear – no one is on their phone.
"There's no signal here – so it's an enforced digital detox," Jemma laughs. "It's enriching to stop for an hour or two and just be outdoors." Dinner is announced and diners follow their noses to where burly chefs are serving jasmine rice and Keralan curry – inspired by Simon's travels in India – as well as plenty of fresh fish. You can spot seasoned visitors by the size of their plates – novices hold modest breakfast bowls, while the experienced wield vast pasta dishes in which to fit the plentiful portions. The party is made up of an assortment of locals and those who have travelled far and wide to be here tonight – one couple has come from Exeter, another Manchester. There are students from nearby Falmouth University, young families, elderly couples and everyone in between. With prices starting at £14 for a smoky shellfish dinner, attendees are aware they're getting real value for money. Most say they'd be willing to pay a lot more, but Simon and Jemma want to keep it "inclusive not exclusive".
Night falls and with it sweeps in a chilly sea breeze, but spirits remain high with people still huddled together in the light of the fire, drinking wine from paper cups. Some tuck blankets round bare legs as Jemma ponders whether to hand out hot-water bottles. Simon smiles: "It doesn't look like anyone's going to leave tonight."
25 of the best picnic blankets for outdoor dining in style
So'Home Picnic Blanket in Green Floral
This pretty picnic blanket from La Redoute is perfect for a day out. It features a colourful flower print with waterproof backing and a carry handle to help you transport it from home to park.
H&M Striped Picnic Blanket
A striped picnic blanket that folds down flat, this one is ideal if you're short on space at home. It's made from woven fabric with a print on the front and a soft, water-repellent plastic backing. The carry strap has a hook and loop fastening for easy transporting.
Rubbastuff PACMAT Chilterns Family Picnic Blanket
Lightweight, waterproof and washable, this cool picnic blanket features a map of the Chilterns. It's the ideal rug for people who like to walk and is light, compact and folds away into its own stuff sack.
M&S Fold Away Picnic Mat
This cheap and cheerful picnic blanket from M&S is a soft, fold-up option designed in all-over nautical stripes. It features a durable, waterproof backing to keep you dry on damp or cold ground, and the square design folds easily into a neat shape. If it gets sticky you can just wipe it clean.
Decathlon Camping and Hiking Tartan Rug
Designed by Decathlon's team of campers, this picnic blanket comfortably insulates you from the ground when you're picnicking. It was made as a durable and compact rug, with a water-repellent coating that protects you from damp ground.
Eurohike Picnic Blanket
Want a cheap picnic blanket? This one is simple in design but is ideal for something affordable that does the job. It has waterproof backing, it feels comfortable to sit on and there's a handy strap for rolling it up and carrying from home to the park.
Catherine Lansfield Silly Sausage Dogs Picnic Blanket
Dog lovers, this picnic blanket printed with elegant sausage dogs is for you! Whether you've got a pooch in tow or not, this picnic rug's sure to attract the attention of fellow animal lovers. When you've used it, the blanket folds up and has a carry handle for easy transporting.
Fortnum's Picnic Rug
Experts in tea time treats and alfresco dining, Fortnum & Mason knows how to make a quality picnic blanket. This one, in the luxury department store's signature eau de nil colour paired with navy blue, comes in wool mix material and is a stylish picnic rug for the garden, park or beach. There also leather handles for easy carrying.
Emma Bridgewater Picnic Rug
We're dotty for this spotted picnic blanket from Emma Bridgewater. It's smart, rolls up easily and looks beautiful laid out. If there are any spills, it's also easy to wipe clean.
Oliver Bonas Lemi Geometric Print Picnic Blanket
Squeeze some zest into your next picnic with Oliver Bonas' Lemi rug, decorated in a lemon and geometric print. The picnic blankets is finished with a waterproof backing and has a fabric shoulder strap and fastener tape so you can easily roll it away and transport to your favourite sunspot.
The White Company Lindos Outdoor Blanket
This large picnic blanket made from Turkish cotton is a luxurious option for families or a group enjoying a day in the garden, at the beach or on an alfresco adventure. It features a stylish nautical-inspired stripe design and the picnic rug is finished with a tassel edge.
The Blanquet by BLOOM Gin
Looking for something extra large? The Blanquet by BLOOM Gin is the perfect way to gather a large group of family or friends (when restrictions ease) around one big mat. It measures a huge 6.5 metres, giving you plenty of space to arrange a fabulous spread.
Sophie Allport Bees Knitted Picnic Blanket
Heading to the beach? This beautiful bee-print picnic blanket in is perfect for trips to the seaside. It has water-resistant backing and faux leather straps for carrying it around. The unique print and purse-friendly materials makes it one worth packing for days out.
Kate Spade New York Rainbow Plaid Picnic Rug
This lovely picnic blanket by Kate Spade has a beautiful multicoloured check design and is made of 100% cotton. The picnic rug is the perfect thing to pack for days out in the summer, bringing a vibrant touch to your picnic.
Hand Embroidered Picnic Blanket
A round picnic blanket with a 'walking on sunshine' message, this one is ideal for folding up and taking wherever you go when the sun is shining. The hand-embroidered picnic rug is made from cotton and features white fringe all the way round.
Livehitop Fleece Extra Large Picnic Blanket
This extra large picnic blankets is roomy enough for up to eight people to enjoy. There's waterproof and sandproof backing, a comfy fleece surface and the 200cm x 200cm picnic rug folds up compact and is easy to transport to any beach or park.
Sol 72 Outdoor Round Picnic Blanket
Prefer a round picnic rug? We like this one that's waterproof and anti-fungal, while reversible too. It's made of high quality and lightweight polypropylene, plus the picnic blanket has an extended lifespan due to the UV treatment.
Joules Fleece Picnic Blanket
One you can choose as a small, medium or large picnic blanket, this roll-up picnic blanket is both practical and cosy. Made in Cornwall, it's one side washable fleece for you to relax in comfort. The Joules picnic blanket is washable and made from high quality materials, making it one that will withstand spills for years.
Kissing Hedgehogs Picnic Blanket
With enough space for six people, this large picnic blanket is fun, lightweight and portable too. The striking design is perfect for nature-lovers and it's made in Britain for those looking to reduce their carbon footprint. We love the yellow hedgehog print on the bold blue background.
VonShef Blue Herringbone Picnic Blanket
Roll it up, carry it and lay it down easily - we love this beautiful herringbone picnic blanket that's affordable too. It's made from hardwearing fleece polyester for something that lasts, plus the picnic rug has waterproof backing to keep you dry while you tuck into your strawberries and cream.
Scion Mr Fox Picnic Rug
With its fun print making it ideal for the garden, park or beach, this picnic blanket comes with a waterproof backing and handy carrying straps. It features Scion's popular Mr.Fox design and is easy to roll up once you're done.
John Lewis & Partners Geo Picnic Rug
This lightweight fabric picnic blanket features a stylish geometric design and comes complete with a waterproof backing so you can lay it out on damp ground. When you're not using the picnic rug, it rolls up neatly and is easily carried with its durable webbing handle.
Regatta Matio Picnic Rug Strawberry Print
With its soft foam mid layer for extra comfort, this picnic blanket really is cheap and cheerful! It features a strawberry print and works brilliantly at home in the garden, for lunch in the park or for lounging on the beach.
Atlantic Blankets You, Me & the Sea Picnic Blanket
This picnic blanket for beach lovers is great for a romantic alfresco date and made in England using recycled cotton. It reads 'You, Me & the Sea' and is versatile for you to also use over your shoulders at the seaside or as something you can snuggle with on the sofa at night.
Atlantic Blankets Coral Wool Herringbone Blanket
This beautiful coral picnic blanket made from 100% British new wool shows off a classic herringbone design, with a cream edge and fringe. It's easy to wash in the machine and looks gorgeous for a colourful spread. We'd opt for cutlery and plates that are just as bright too.
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Source: https://www.countryliving.com/uk/news/a36714233/the-hidden-hut-cornwall-g7-bbq/
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